Simplify, lower, streamline. Artistic director Alberto Caliri is placing Missoni on a food plan, believing that the label wants to be “lighter, cleaner, much less layered, significantly less loud.” He previously built his position in the September present and held the exact same spirit for pre-tumble. Caliri is no newcomer. His extended practical experience as Angela Missoni’s head of style tends to make him a custodian of continuity his in-depth knowledge of the label’s dynamics is clear. Having said that, though his model of the house codes is respectful, it is no reverential homage.
The reduction method was obvious in the slimming of silhouettes and in the smaller sized proportions of classic Missoni sweaters much less emphasis was set on volumes and layering was saved to a minimum. Any indication of chromatic flamboyance was dimmed graphic motifs have been significantly less vivid and gentler. Pants in lots of iterations, from cargos to tailor-made straight-leg possibilities to roomy laminated jeans patched with zig-zag lurex intarsia, complemented cosy jacquard jumpers, knitted in the signature fiammato sample. To attractiveness to a wider age group of shoppers, sporty/street-influenced items (hoodies, tracksuits, zippered bombers) were proposed in soft-knitted textures and worn beneath elongated maxi coats or over minidresses. Night was provided a luminous sheen, albeit of the discrete assortment. A extensive equipped gown with a hooded collar was web-knitted in a sequined yarn it exuded a selected sensuality, injecting a frisson into the normally purposeful, flexible offer.